Burnt wheat cookies: A recipe from Secret Bakery, No. 9 among Top 10 Dining Experiences

Sometimes the burnt bits are the best part.

Our No. 9 restaurant in the 2024 Top 10 Dining Experiences list puts that curiosity to the test with its burnt wheat cookies. Secret Bakery in Ferndale shared the recipe, and we tested it to make it as easy as possible to duplicate at home.

At Secret Bakery, and most bakeries, ingredients are measured by weight. This ensures a consistent product. Here, we added the weight plus a conversion to cups, tablespoons and teaspoons. It’s a good idea to weigh all the ingredients and set them aside before you get started. The secret to this recipe is the burnt whole wheat flour. Toasting the flour brings out nutty and malty nuances. Be sure to do this step first.

More:No. 9: Secret Bakery brings a speakeasy bread shop to Ferndale

Secret Bakery burnt wheat cookies

Makes: about 30 cookies / Prep time: 1 hour / Total time: 2 hours

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2½ cups (320 grams) 100% whole wheat flour, divided

6 ounces (181 grams) unsalted butter (13 tablespoons), softened

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (181 grams) sugar

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (181 grams) packed light brown sugar

2 eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (16 grams) vegetable or canola oil

¾ teaspoon (7 grams) salt

1 teaspoon (8 grams) baking soda

1 cup (201 grams) of dark chocolate chips

Flaky sea salt for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large, dry skillet, add half (1¼ cups) of the whole wheat flour. Over medium heat, roast the flour, stirring gently until it begins to smell toasty and nutty and takes on the color of milk chocolate, about 15 minutes. Be sure to toast the flour carefully and slowly while watching for color changes so the flour does not scorch. Remove from the heat and set aside.

(At Secret Bakery, the chef starts out using whole wheat berries that are baked in the oven until the color of dark chocolate, a bit like roasting whole coffee beans, which will then be milled into a rich, malty flour.)

To make the cookies. In a standard mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, sugar and brown sugar. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating in until incorporated. Stir in the vanilla and oil slowly to incorporate.

Working in batches, add the toasted flour and the remaining whole wheat flour along with the salt and baking soda until just combined. Fold in the chocolate chips.

Drop cookie batter by heaping 2 tablespoonfuls (at Secret Bakery, cookies are 100 grams each) onto the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle cookies with the flaky salt. Bake cookies about 11-13 minutes or until the edges begin to crisp. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely.

From Secret Bakery, Ferndale.

Tested by Susan Selasky.

More from our Restaurant of the Year series here.